Upon arriving at our campsite
near Chamonix by minibus, we bought some provisions for the coming days
and made our way to the nearby Gaillands Crag where climbing skills were
taught by Mark Bradbury, Kirk Wadsworth and Jim Turner. In glorious
sunshine, we learnt some basic ropework skills and knots, and we also had
some exposure to height in the safety of a crag environment.
The next stage of instruction was to visit the Mer de
Glace, a huge slow moving glacier reached by the Montenvers cog railway
from Chamonix. On the ice, we learnt to ice axe self arrest, cut steps,
and make good use of our crampons. This done, we moved on to the day’s
main event: crevasse rescue. Working in three-man rope teams, we simulated
a crevasse fall by lowering the first person down into a crevasse. The two
on the surface then held the weight and put the rescue plan into action,
which meant the middle person placing ice screws, rigging up an unassisted
hoist, and with the help of the third person, pulling out the stricken
climber. Everyone took a turn at being the middle person on the rope.
On Tuesday 1st August we split down into two
alpine groups and a summer group. Paul Rodenhurst, Zoe Trimm, Jim Turner,
Dave Arnot, and Ray Blanchette were led by Kirk Wadsworth. A second alpine
group of Andy Carroll, Ken Barker, Andy Wilkins, Ritchie Roberts, and Dave
Dewfall was led by Mark Bradbury. The Alpinists had a tough two days of
training on the Glacier Tre La Tete, with an overnight stay at Refuge des
Conscrits. Meanwhile the summer walking group (Dan Blenkin, Vicky Eyre,
Duncan Sleigh, Carl Young) was being trained by John Middler, and during
this period they completed their Summer Mountaineering Proficiency Award.
Friday and Saturday brought with them some bad weather
and thus a good opportunity for rest and recovery. Many visited the
swimming pool and the Alpine Museum. Andy Carroll and Duncan Sleigh
meanwhile visited the summer luge d’ete, a kind of summer bobsleigh
activity. Andy explained to Duncan that it was quite unnecessary to use
the brake fitted to the carts. Unfortunately Andy was wrong in this and
upon reaching the second bend was catapulted clear of the track, causing
abrasions to himself and his new coat. Also on Saturday, Andy Wilkins, Ken
Barker and Vicky Eyre return to the UK, whilst Pete Villiers and Craig
Storey joined us in Chamonix.
On Sunday those who had been in the summer group got a
turn at alpinism when we visited Refuge Albert Premiere and the next day
made an attempt on Aiguille de Tour. Following our exertions on the
glacier, we had a less strenuous couple of days. Crag climbing at
Vallorcine gave the alpine group the chance to enjoy some superb
multi-pitch climbing and also to receive instruction from Kirk Wadsworth
on lead climbing skills. The following day we visited Clusaz for more crag
climbing and an exhilarating Via Ferrata route led by Mark Bradbury.
The grand finale of the trip was a stay in the Refuge
des Cosmiques followed by an ascent of Mont Blanc du Tacul. This was an
exciting and rewarding climb at the top of which was a short rock and ice
scramble. A massive sense of achievement was felt by all upon summiting
this peak and for most people, at 4248m, it was higher than they had ever
climbed before. Everyone felt that this ascent, and the trip as a whole,
was amongst the most rewarding adventurous training they had ever done,
and for some it will certainly have sown the seeds for a lifelong interest
in climbing and mountaineering.
LCpl Jim Turner AGC (SPS)