Those
interested were trained over the course of three months including a Winter
Mountain Proficiency course in the Cairngorms. Once ready a group of eight
cadets, two instructors and the expedition leader headed for the climbing
Mecca of Chamonix in southern France. The exercise would consist of three
days high altitude training and acclimatisation followed by a two-day
ascent of Mont Blanc. Acclimatisation took place on the Argentiere Glacier
with the group based in the Argentiere Hut. This proved an excellent base
that allowed high altitude to be gained during the day aiding with the
acclimatisation process. The group also learnt new skills during this
phase, the highlight being crevasse rescues that saw all members lowered
into and then rescued from a seemingly bottomless crevasse.
The good weather enjoyed for acclimatisation began to
deteriorate as the three days ended and the group prepared for the ascent
of Mt Blanc. It was decided to delay the ascent by one day, proving a wise
decision as the mountain rescue helicopter spent the day ferrying people
off the mountain to Chamonix Hospital after storms on top.
On Sunday 12 June the decision was made to attempt the
summit early the next day and the group took the Aiguille du Midi cable
car up the mountain and made the short traverse down the ridge and across
the Col du Midi to the Cosmiques Hut. Here they were treated to a
sumptuous feed before attempting to get some sleep before the 0200 start.
The group rose a 0100 for breakfast to find a thunderstorm raging outside
the hut. The French guides insisted it would clear and at 0300 the storm
started to lift. At 0400 the group set out to climb the first section of
the route, the shoulder of Mt Blanc du Tacul. This is a vast slope of snow
and ice interlaced with crevasses and patches of seracs. After 21/2
hours the group gained the shoulder and stopped to rest. The summit was
still under cloud and the horizon was rolling with thick grey cloud and
some imposing anvil shaped formations. The conditions were going to worsen
and the instructors and group leader decided that to continue would risk
the safety of the group and so it was decided to descend to the cable car.
This proved a wise choice as the weather quickly closed in and visibility
was reduced to a few meters. Even the hardy local guides turned back and
retreated with their groups.
The group remained upbeat and accepted that this was a
risk of alpine mountaineering. All agreed that the five days
mountaineering that had been achieved more than justified the trip. The
support the exercise received from the Ulysses Trust allowed the bursars
to partake in an expedition that would have been beyond their means. They
have all vowed to return and conquer the mountain and admit to having
caught the bug for big mountains.
Captain Toby Rider