Mountaineering Expedition ‘Shrivenham Ascent 2005’, French Alps, June 2005

Defence Technological Undergraduate Support Unit

One of the key tools for developing the Officer Cadets on the Defence Technological Undergraduate Scheme is adventurous training. The challenge was to run an inexpensive expedition that still gave to opportunities to the relatively low paid bursars on the scheme. The answer was an ascent of Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest peak.

Ascending the Argentiere Glacier
Ascending the Argentiere Glacier
Those interested were trained over the course of three months including a Winter Mountain Proficiency course in the Cairngorms. Once ready a group of eight cadets, two instructors and the expedition leader headed for the climbing Mecca of Chamonix in southern France. The exercise would consist of three days high altitude training and acclimatisation followed by a two-day ascent of Mont Blanc. Acclimatisation took place on the Argentiere Glacier with the group based in the Argentiere Hut. This proved an excellent base that allowed high altitude to be gained during the day aiding with the acclimatisation process. The group also learnt new skills during this phase, the highlight being crevasse rescues that saw all members lowered into and then rescued from a seemingly bottomless crevasse.

The good weather enjoyed for acclimatisation began to deteriorate as the three days ended and the group prepared for the ascent of Mt Blanc. It was decided to delay the ascent by one day, proving a wise decision as the mountain rescue helicopter spent the day ferrying people off the mountain to Chamonix Hospital after storms on top.

On Sunday 12 June the decision was made to attempt the summit early the next day and the group took the Aiguille du Midi cable car up the mountain and made the short traverse down the ridge and across the Col du Midi to the Cosmiques Hut. Here they were treated to a sumptuous feed before attempting to get some sleep before the 0200 start. The group rose a 0100 for breakfast to find a thunderstorm raging outside the hut. The French guides insisted it would clear and at 0300 the storm started to lift. At 0400 the group set out to climb the first section of the route, the shoulder of Mt Blanc du Tacul. This is a vast slope of snow and ice interlaced with crevasses and patches of seracs. After 21/2 hours the group gained the shoulder and stopped to rest. The summit was still under cloud and the horizon was rolling with thick grey cloud and some imposing anvil shaped formations. The conditions were going to worsen and the instructors and group leader decided that to continue would risk the safety of the group and so it was decided to descend to the cable car. This proved a wise choice as the weather quickly closed in and visibility was reduced to a few meters. Even the hardy local guides turned back and retreated with their groups.

The group remained upbeat and accepted that this was a risk of alpine mountaineering. All agreed that the five days mountaineering that had been achieved more than justified the trip. The support the exercise received from the Ulysses Trust allowed the bursars to partake in an expedition that would have been beyond their means. They have all vowed to return and conquer the mountain and admit to having caught the bug for big mountains.

Captain Toby Rider

Ascending the knife edge ridge to Aguille du Midi
Ascending the knife edge ridge to Aguille du Midi

OCdt Marshall atop the French Italian Border
OCdt Marshall atop the French Italian Border

Capt Graeme Scott leads his rope up Mont Blanc du Tacul
Capt Graeme Scott leads his rope up Mont Blanc du Tacul

 
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