Snow Trekking and Climbing Expedition ‘Arctic Blue’, Greenland – July 2005

Cambridge University Officer Training Corps

Looking out across the fjord from the airstrip, we scratched our heads and wondered if our journey so far could have been for nothing. A maze of drifting icebergs still lay between us and our first objective, establishing a base camp within Liverpool Land, in the North East of Greenland. Luckily, we were able to draw on the expertise of some of the local Inuits from Scoresbysund. After successfully navigating a route across the fjord, we were deposited onto a beach with all our kit, two weeks rations, fuel and rifles for protection from polar bears. We were ready to go and do some climbing.

 

Camping on one of the many glaciers
Camping on one of the many glaciers
Our base camp was situated between two prominent glaciers, close to the areas highest peak, Tvillingern, at 1430m. Splitting into smaller groups, we headed off on our first adventure: setting up camp out on the Hans glacier, as close as possible to several of the peaks on our hit list.

Having been in Greenland for five days with uninterrupted sunlight and not a drop of rain, we were eager to take advantage of the good conditions whilst we had the opportunity, so we headed straight for Tvillingern. After a short walk-in up the glacier we were faced with a straightforward ascent up a steep snow gully followed by a scramble to the summit. After enjoying our pepperamis and choccy bars whilst overlooking the whole Scoresbysund fjord system, the largest in the world, we began to make our way down. The descent proved more interesting, via a snowy couloir complete with rock falls to dodge and a gaping bergschrund to cross.

On the glacier with the Tvillingern group in the background
On the glacier with the Tvillingern group in the background
The Author approaching the summit block of Tvillingern
The Author approaching the summit block of Tvillingern
On the summit
On the summit
After tackling several other peaks, we returned to base camp to recover and plan our next trip – a lengthy trek northwards to attempt an ‘interesting ridge’, spotted by Phil. After crossing two valleys and several monstrous glaciers, we established a camp at sea level, 1330m below the summit, which towered above us menacingly.

Beginning our day with an icy river crossing, we scrambled our way up onto the ridge, which we followed for over eight hours before frustratingly being forced to retreat due to an absence of good descent routes.

After several long days climbing we packed up and started the long trek back to the fjord to catch our lift home. A few days R&R in Iceland followed, the groups sharing their stories over a few well earned pints and some very large pizzas!

OCdt John Dodds

 

Returning from a hard day on the hill
Returning from a hard day on the hill
 
Home   Last updated 25/10/2008 .   Copyright © Ulysses Trust 2003 - 2010