Mountaineering Expedition ‘Mountain Blue’, Chamonix, August 2004

Cambridge University Officer Training Corps

  

Assembling in Cambridge at midnight on the 1st August, a party of 12 officer cadets and 4 instructors departed by minibus on the long journey to Chamonix in the French Alps. The aim was straight forward - to introduce members of Cambridge UOTC to all aspects of alpine mountaineering and rock climbing, with the intention of climbing Mont Blanc, Western Europe’s highest peak.

Once settled at our home for the next three weeks, a campsite in Les Praz, the group travelled to the Mer de Glace to conduct some basic skills training. After a day of dancing around in crampons and climbing out of crevasses, we split into two groups, each scouring the region for something to climb.

The first group began in the valley, testing themselves on many of the popular sport crags in the Chamonix area, including les Gaillands, Servoz, Vallorcine and la Joux. Ventures were also made into the Aiguilles Rouges to tackle some longer multipitch routes including Aiguille de la Perseverance and Clocher de Planpraz, involving an introduction to Tyrolean traverses.

At the same time the other group were pushing themselves on some long days out amongst the high peaks overlooking the valley, mainly in the Argentiere region, exploring glaciers and (usually) dodging crevasses. Among their hit list were the Col du Tour, Fenętre du Tour and the Aiguille du Moine. After a couple of weeks all had progressed immensely and were putting their newfound skills into practice whenever they had the chance.

Unfortunately, as is often the case in such trips, due to a combination of unforeseen circumstances and some disappointingly poor weather conditions, the final objective of climbing Mont Blanc could not be achieved. However, much was still gained in the final days of the trip with members of the group pushing up through the grades on the crags in and around the Chamonix area, leaving all physically and mentally drained but satisfied at three weeks well spent.

OCdt John Dodds

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