Mountaineering Expedition ‘Paccard’s Dragon’ – Alps – July 2004
3rd (Volunteer) Military Intelligence Battalion
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Paccard’s Dragon was a 2 week mountaineering expedition to Chamonix in July 04. The aim was to introduce novices to alpine mountaineering and to climb Mont Blanc, at 4800m the highest peak in Western Europe. The six man team spent the first couple of days on the Mer de Glace glacier being introduced to mountaineering techniques and crevasse rescue. Once the basic techniques had been mastered, a two day expedition to the summit of La Berangere was planned. La Berangere is a 3425m peak in the Mont Blanc Massif. It was a perfect preparatory climb for Mont Blanc; increasing the teams experience, stamina and most importantly acclimatisation. The first day saw the team climb out of the Montjoie Valley on to the Tre-La-Tete Glacier. A steep climb off the glacier took the team to the Conscrits Hut where the night was spent. A 0300hrs start on the following day took the team up a steep snow section onto a rocky scramble to the summit. The team then conducted a quick descent back down to the vehicle and on to the camp site. The sense of achievement was tempered by the realisation that a sprained ankle on the descent meant that 2Lt Morgan wouldn’t be able to join the rest on Mont Blanc. Following a rest day, the remaining five members of the team started the two day attempt on Mt Blanc. In rain, the team took the telipherique and mountain train to Nid de Aigle. After a long slow slog the team reached the Tete Rouse hut (3167m). Here Cpl Sellers was feeling the effects of mountain sickness and couldn’t go on. The rest continued up to the Grand Couloir, a 50m gap with a falling rock hazard that kills more people each year than any other feature in the Alps. The couloir was particularly active and WO2 Bradley avoided a car wheel sized rock travelling at terminal velocity by about one foot. The rest of the steep rocky scramble to the Gouter Hut (3782m), was conducted without incident. The team slept at the Gouter Hut rising at 0100hrs to a clear crisp night. After breakfast the team was climbing by 0230hrs. At 1000hrs with only 300m to go, Cpl O’Connor, suffering from mountain sickness, had to drop out and return to the emergency Vallot Hut. The remaining three team members, Maj Harris, WO2 Bradley and LCpl Turner reached the summit one hour later. On the way down the two other team members were picked up and the camp site reached by 1500hrs.The final two days were spent resting, rock climbing and preparing for the long journey home. The trip had been a great success with every body experiencing mixed route mountaineering and summiting well above the snow line. |
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