Trekking, 'Annapurna Tiger', Nepal - Annapurna, Sep 2011, ID 1161

Exeter UOTC

Nepal is best known for its towering mountains and peaks that have challenged humans to their very limits but Exercise Annapurna Tiger focussed on a slightly different trail in the Himalayan kingdom. The Officer Cadets of Exeter University Officer Training Corps (EUOTC) may have dreams of one day conquering Everest but the aim of this trekking expedition was to reach Annapurna Base Camp at a maximum elevation of 4130m. The route follows the Annapurna Sanctuary Trail, which is arguably one of the best treks in the world, giving a true demonstration of the staggering scale of the Himalayas and its beauty.

The EUOTC recruits students from Exeter, Plymouth and surrounding South-West universities and just like any unit in the British Army it has a strong emphasis on adventure training with personal encouraged to get involved. Students are also encouraged to organise adventure training so OCdt Adam King started planning for Nepal in January and became the expedition leader. OCdt Emily King (no relation!) became the second in command, thanks to her mountain leader training, and the group was joined by two senior instructors, Corporal David Gleave from the RAF Mountain Rescue Service and Sergeant Gary Naylor, Royal Engineers. The group of 15, consisting of nine male and six female personnel, met in Wyvern Barracks on the 31st August to get kitted out with everything they might need and flew out to Kathmandu the next day in high spirits!

After a hair-raising fast decent into Kathmandu, due to the plane having to go up and over the mountains, we arrived and experienced true Gurkha hospitality. A small army of Gurkhas from the British Gurkhas Nepal HQ had been sent to assist us through passport and visa control and drive us to the HQ compound in the city. Anyone who has visited this part of the world can tell you that driving through the city is a fantastic assault on the senses, especially coming from the relative calm of the West Country! The bus pulled into British Gurkhas Nepal HQ and we met Major Bill Kelsall, the commanding officer in Nepal. The rest of the day was spent in briefings or on general admin. The next day the group set off in Gurkha transport on the 8 hour journey by treacherous mountain road to Pokhara. The views throughout the drive are impressive but unfortunately you spend most of the time on the road in Nepal fearing the other drivers or sizing up the drop below you whilst dodging the visible land slide damage.

The rucksacks were slung on and the trek begins! This is where the Officer Cadets really stood out from most expeditions to Nepal as it had been decided that porters would not be used. This was an important element of the experience as the expedition leader had decided that they would gain a greater sense of achievement if they carried their own kit. This would develop their physical fitness as well as their teamwork, as they may need to assist each other along the way. Each group member carried roughly the same amount of personal kit regardless of their size without a word of complaint throughout the whole expedition and for most of us it was entertaining to see the three smaller girls turn into walking rucksacks! Another main decision that defined the expedition was the choice to trek in early September knowing that the monsoon was not yet finished. This turned out to work in our advantage as it meant that the trail was completely empty of tourists. We were told that a week later the trail would have turned into a steady caravan of trekkers all tussling for space in the tea house accommodation. As a result we only had to deal with two hours of rain a day that fell at midday, which really didn’t matter as we were under cover having lunch anyway.

Each day of trekking in the Annapurna region offered something very different. The first few days were a steady climb in the highly fertile foothills past swollen rivers and giant waterfalls. As we ascended to Ghorephani and the 3000m mark the mountain range opened up and we saw the vast scale of the rock and ice surrounding us. We started the second day with an early morning excursion to Poon Hill at 4am to catch the sunrise light on Machapuchare or the ‘fishtail’. The two pronged summit of this sacred mountain, which is regarded by the Nepalese as the ‘Queen of Nepal’, has, out of respect for the culture, never been climbed. As we ascended past 3000m the climb began to steepen each day through tropical forests or along narrow paths with 1000m drops alongside. We mainly used stone staircases but as the trail continued these became less common and we started to navigate round land slides or over swollen monsoon rivers.

Each day the group stopped at tea houses along the route, which provided basic accommodation and a delicious variety of local food. Rooms and toilets were basic but after a hard days trek uphill in humid conditions it felt like a 5* hotel. On the 7th day we ascended to our goal of Annapurna Base Camp (4130m). Again, we started at 4am while it was still dark with head torches on and walked in silent anticipation. When we were a kilometre short of the base camp the sun rose on the far side of the valley illuminating the tops of Annapurna and the surrounding peaks in a spectacular display of light. All 13 Officer Cadets from the EUOTC achieved the goal of reaching Annapurna Base Camp and not only were there no injuries but they can all be proud that they carried their own weight. Excitement grew in the group as we walked through the small cluster of huts, stood between prayer flags on the ridge and looked up. At that point you just have to pause and take in the feeling you get when you realise that you’re standing between some of the highest and most impressive mountains in the world and let them put you back in your place.

OCdt Adam King, Expedition Leader

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