Mountaineering, 'Cockney Longwalk', South France, Jul 2011, ID 1144

256 (City of London) Field Hospital (V)

5am, Friday 22 July and people were already stirring in the drill hall. Nervous energy looking forward to a trip that we had all spent many days reading about. The Tour of the Oisans, a 180km circular route along the GR54 around the Ecrins National Park in southern France with over 13000m ascent. Usually walked in 13 days, we only had 9 due to work constraints. The team consisted of 12 members of 256 City of London Field Hospital (TA) and an extra Royal Signals instructor. Ranging in rank from Private to Lieutenant Colonel and ages of 30 and 54, the team had a varied breadth of mountaineering experience and covered all aspects of NHS healthcare with nurses, physios, radiographers and doctors.

By 7am we were at St Pancras onboard the Eurostar to Paris, and then by TGV to Grenoble. Things were moving to plan.......and then luck ran out. The Tour de France was due to go through our start point that day – a minor planning oversight. In Grenoble we found that all public transport had been cancelled. After much negotiating with taxi drivers we finally organised a transfer. However, with a few kilometres to go, things ground to a halt with traffic snaking up into the mountains ahead. So the trek began early with a night hike in the rain to get to Bourg – typical Adventurous Training in the army! Our accommodation was made up of self catered apartments, and would be our transit accommodation at the end of the tour. A long first day, but we had made it.

The next morning, all the Tour de France traffic had departed. The mountain views all around peeked out from the low valley cloud. After a simple breakfast of bread, jam and cereal, we were transferred up to Huez. The group split into two with each instructor (Raj and Ross) taking charge. Rucksacks were donned and we were off. Heading up over Col-de-Sarenne, we saw our first marmots and mountain goats. A rapid descent brought us to Bessse-en-Oisans. Here the group met its final two members (Mark and Cat) who had come straight from the Nijmegen Marches in Holland (just for some more punishment as 100 miles in 4 days had not been tough enough!). After a teaching session on mountain equipment and packing, the evening meal provided the perfect night cap and people soon retired to bed.

The next two days took us from Besse to Monetier-les-Bains. As people found their mountain legs and got used to their equipment, some soon realised that not all items were essential and things were soon being discarded. “Nothing weighs nothing!” Regular navigation breaks meant people progressed in their skills and were then able to lead the group for the day.

Whilst clouds spoiled the views, temperatures remained tolerable without the threat of sunburn. Each day progressively grew in length and ascent profiles and people acclimatised. Day 5 took us over the mountain passes Col de l’Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale, the highest points on route. With driving rain these proved hard work. Some short roping got the group through and 2 hours descent brought us to our first mountain hut. This was remote and provided dormitory accommodation with good mountain food – soup, salad and lots of pasta. A wood stove in the corner provided the only warmth to dry out the wet kit. As people edged closer, the first victims proved to be Andrea’s bra and then Kurian’s trousers. Thankfully strapping tape was at hand to fix the holes.

That evening saw plenty of runners pass through competing in the annual GR5 ultramarathon. Whilst we were struggling with nine days to complete the route (with meals and beds provided) these competitors were running the route in less than 48 hours non-stop. The physical fitness of the wiry men and women was simply incredible – a few more years of training before we got to that stage!

From day 7, the route became even more remote with escape routes becoming fewer and far between. At this point 3 people decided to call it a day. The terrain had taken its toll on backs and knees, and before injuries worsened, they retired back to Bourg. The remaining group were now concentrating on getting to the end. Every step brought us closer. The descent at the end of day 7 was a steep 1500m drop to Le Desert. Described as ‘knee wrenching’ by the guidebook, Dani, our resident physio, soon had lots of clients for business. Stretching and strapping with the odd Ibuprofen and Paracetamol were on prescription all around. Le Desert, a tiny little hamlet with only 2 families living all year round provided fantastic meals in the local pub before retiring to the gite for the night.

The next day took us through to Refuge de la Muzelle. 2300m of ascent meant that everyone was looking forward to a hot shower at the Club Alpine Francais hut. However, electricity failure only allowed for tepid water. A few decided to brave the refreshing glacial lake outside instead. Games of blackgammon, and plenty of gossip around cups of cafe-au-lait and chocolat chaude soon warmed us up.

The final day began with beautiful weather with stunning views down to the emerald Lac Lautivel. Here the tame marmots kept the group occupied during lunch. From there, 3 hours brought us back to Bourg. A welcome sight which called for ice-creams all around. The group had made it and the 3 others were thankfully there to welcome us back.

A rest day provided the first opportunity to sun bathe and rest the legs. A group meal locally with the sun setting over the Ecrins made a fitting end to such a fantastic and challenging trip. Everyone had learnt and gained something from the experience.

Thanks must be given to the Ulysses Trust for all their financial support in making this expedition a resounding success for all involved.

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