Mountaineering, 'Introduction To Alpine Mountaineering', Alpes Pennie, Aug 2011, ID 1140

HQ Cadet Centre For Adventurous Training

The CCAT IAM Course was based from a campsite in Saas Grund, Switzerland during the period 21-28 Aug 11.

The high mountain range that lies between the Rhone and Aosta valleys, known as the Pennine Alps (Valais or Wallis), contains the greatest concentration of 4000metre peaks. The range includes some of the most famous peaks in Europe; the Matterhorn stands out as the matriarch overlooking Zermatt. This is a region of classical alpinism where experience and the ability to move efficiently over moderate terrain are the skills that will count for more than just technical ability. Traditionally, British mountaineers have chosen this area as the first venue to cut their teeth to learn the fundamentals of Alpine mountaineering. The area offers a wide and varied selection of routes which appeals to alpinists of all abilities with many gems that can provide a tranquil and undisturbed experience even in the height of the season. Loose rock is an ever present hazard on Alpine routes and one should never be complacent when travelling across glaciers as crevasses harbours an ever present threat.

This year’s IAM was a bumper course with sixteen aspiring Alpine mountaineers selected to attend. This course included an even split of Senior Cadets (17yrs+) and Cadet Force Adult Volunteer instructors, 5 x female and 11 x males made up the group with a varied mix of abilities and experience.

We departed Capel Curig in 2 x minibuses, 20 Aug, travelling overland via Dover and the ferry, through France and onward to Saas Grund arriving early morning Sun 21 Aug. The first order of business was to establish ourselves in the Mischabel campsite nestled in the Saastal valley. The campsite manager, Gret, was an ever helpful source of information and assistance throughout our stay. Whilst on the one hand the Swiss Alps is a fantastic Alpine training area, it is hugely expensive.

The local weather conditions will always dictate an Alpine programme. Whilst the weather was mostly set fair throughout the week there was always the threat of late afternoon thunder storms. Luckily we always managed to remain ahead of any bad weather and did not lose a day in the training programme.

Acclimatisation is the key ingredient in which a progressive training programme pays dividends so the Alpine experience can be enjoyed rather than endured.

Day 1-2 - our first route choice was the Dri Hornli a glacier and snow free Alpine rock ridge. We took a leisurely 4 hour stroll through Alpine meadows, stopping frequently on route for refreshment, up to the Almagell mountain hut at 2895mts. For the majority of the group this was their first taste of a mountain hut and as such we discussed the etiquette expected so they did not disgrace themselves.

The following day dawned perfect thus allowing a modest early morning start with a short approach to the start of the ridge. With plenty of time on our hands we ascended the various towers to the summit at a moderate Very Difficult grade. We returned to the valley and campsite late into the evening.

Day 3 - we had a rest day following our first exploits to treat some blisters however everyone was in fine spirit. We also covered some key additional training on glacier rope work and use of klettersteig equipment.

Day 4 – after a very early start we travelled across to the Aosta valley for some training on the Moiry Glacier. This day epitomised what the group had come on the course to achieve and it certainly ticked the right boxes. We ascended to the Moiry Hut at 2785mts.

Day 5 – this was our first ascent of a true Alpine mountain, the Pigne (3396mts) via the NNW ridge PD. We descended all the way back to the car park by midday.

Day 6 – our last day of the IAM programme was an ascent of a klettersteig which is literally a mountain route fixed with cables and ladders to aid and protect an ascent. We chose one of the longer klettersteig routes in Switzerland on the Dauberhorn. A long exciting day for all but considered the icing on the cake that had outstripped everyone’s expectations.

All that remained was to pack up the campsite and prepare for the long journey back to the UK. Au Revoir Saas Grund until next year.

We offer our grateful thanks to the Ulysses Trust for their generous financial support towards the costs of the IAM course.

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