Mountaineering, 'Blue Dolomite', Italy- Dolomites, Aug 2011, ID 1121

Oxford University OTC

This summer Oxford University OTC, together with financial assistance from The Ulysses Trust mounted a rock climbing and trekking expedition to the Dolomites in Northern Italy. It was the first major expedition that Junior Under Officer (JUO) James Coates had organised, and he did this during his final year at Oxford University. The expedition consisted of an eight strong trekking team, lead by Martyn Hooker who kindly volunteered his time from a busy job with the RAF and seven climbers with three Rock Climbing Instructors, Andy Nelson (Asp Guide BMG), Andy Hogarth (JSRCI) and Tania Noakes (JSRCI).

The Dolomites are famous for their amazing scenery and unique geology and have recently been declared a UNESCO world heritage site. With steep limestone cliffs and deep ravines, it makes for some challenging trekking both physically (considerable altitude gain and loss) and mentally since many of the walkers paths are considerably exposed and potentially dangerous. As a result Martyn was ably assisted by two student MLTs within the group, Stuart Bullock and Antony Butler and the trekking team had undergone pre-expedition training on unit AT weekends in North Wales prior to the summer. The Trekking team completed several multi-day ‘mini-expeditions’ using a mixture of tented camps and overnight stays in refuges.

The Dolomites are not only beautiful, but are also rich in military history. The area was the site of considerable conflict during the First World War, as a front between Austro-Hungarian and Italian forces. Both the trekking and climbing teams were able to visit various sites which have former front line positions, trenches and fortifications dug into the hillsides, and learn about what went on there.

Whilst the trekking team could appreciate the grandeur of the massive limestone cliffs from afar, the seven relatively inexperienced climbers got to tussle with them ‘up close and personal’. Some challenging climbs had been planned in the itinerary, both in terms of commitment, length and difficulty. As with any plan, the team embarked with the knowledge that weather, conditions, time and ability would all shape what was actually climbed on a day to day basis.

In the end the expedition was blessed with some of the most settled summer weather of the entire Alpine summer, and as a result, of the 12 days the expedition spent in country, major climbs were completed on 10 of them. Only one day was lost to bad weather and one day was taken for rest and positioning for the next climb.

The group climbed amongst others…. The Tognazza, a multi-pitch Rhyolitic cliff near San Martino di Castrozza (6 pitches), The Bridalveil arête on the Cima De la Madonnna (10 pitches) , The Vajolet Towers (4 pitches each tower), Punta Emma (8 pitches), The Sella Towers Traverse (10 pitches), The route of friendship on Piz Cavales (8 pitches), The Hexenstein (6 pitches), The NW Castiglioni-Detassis route on the Pala de la Rifugio (18 ptiches), The west Face Weisner-Kiess on the Sasso D’Ortiga (8 pitches), The Via Classica Tommasson-Bettega route on the south face of the Marmolada (20 pitches), and the Via Normale on the Cima Grande (20 pitches)!

It is difficult to think of a more successful expedition and this was due in no small part to the motivation and enthusiasm of students and instructors alike. The development and achievement of all students was clearly evident during the final days of the expedition. They were challenged at times both mentally and physically and overcome these hurdles through determination and effort. Starting with their initial steps as beginners on pre-training Rock Climbing Foundation courses in the spring through their rapid learning curve on the first multi-pitch routes of the expedition, to the final more challenging routes they undertook in the second week. They were beginning to make their first steps towards independence from instruction and becoming rounded mountaineers in their own right!

They worked hard both individually and as a team and come through it all with much positive energy and humour. By the end ideas for future adventures and expeditions were taking off throughout the group which reflected their thoughts on what they had achieved and what they could strive towards in future, or enable fellow students to achieve.

I look forward to seeing who carries the torch forward from JUO Coates, and where their new skills and motivation carries them. Thank you JUO Coates for organising and leading such a fantastic expedition, and doing it during such a busy and important time in your life. Thank you very much Ulysses Trust for enabling this deeply successful expedition to take place.

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