Wycliffe College CCF

The aim of Exercise Alpine Challenge 5 was to introduce 8 fairly inexperienced cadets to Alpine Climbing with the view of tackling three of highest and most interesting peaks in the Austrian Otztaler. This is one of the many mountain ranges in the Tyrol District and whilst it is not the highest area in the Alps there is little doubt that these impressive peaks did provide a demanding challenge for all our cadets.

We were based at Camping Solden with pre training planned on the Rattenbach Glacier. This however had to be cancelled because of the heavy snowfall which made the steep mountain road impassable. But the next day on the Niederjoch Glacier we did manage to introduce the team to glacier and ice work. All were given the opportunity to become familiar with their crampons, ice axes, and glacier travel and rope systems. The cadets were now ready for our three climbing challenges.

The Similaun at 11899 ft, our first objective is the second highest peak of the three. Although technically the easiest, the knife-edge ridge at the top certainly gave us a sense of insecurity. For a first climb at altitude, most found it very tiring. The pace to the top was slow and methodical and this coupled to the intense heat made it a very energy sapping first climb.

The Hochwilde at 11441 ft was the lowest of all three peaks. The vertical rock and exposed traverses provided everyone with a real challenge. We were now starting to acclimatize and there was no doubt that all were moving with much more fluency and that breathing was not as laboured as on the Similaun peak. None the less this was for most quite an intimidating climb!

The Wildspitz is the highest peak in the Otztaler, at 12444 ft and the second most elevated summit in Austria. It was 6 o’clock as dawn was about to emerge on a dull and dank morning, the atmosphere would not have been out of place in a Lord of the Rings setting as the mist whirled in and out to the imposing high peaks, it certainly was eerie! The pace was slow but there was a sense of purpose and soon height was gained. The route was approached from Mitterkarf Glacier which is one of the great classic routes on this mountain; it certainly provided us with a number challenges, especially the steep but well protected rock band which leads up onto the Mitterkard Col. The next phase was onto the East ridge and then onto a steep rock band to the summit with its large ice encrusted metal cross. The climb took us 6 hours to complete. Whilst bunched close together to give us protection from the strong wind we were frequently showered in splinters of fine icicles from the cross above. The summit was certainly a forbidding place and not one to linger at as the photograph clearly shows. A quick lunch, crampons on and we traversed across the steep North face and then down onto the Rofenkar Glacier back to the Breslauer Hut. The round trip took a total of 9 hours in challenging weather and climbing conditions.

This was a very fit and well-motivated group of cadets who all gained a great deal of experience and personal achievement in this rugged yet extremely beautiful (not so beautiful on the Wildspitz!) area of the Austrian Alps

Paul Rothwell

Thanks to

working in partnership with